Right elevator

After finishing the majority of the prep work on the rudder (cutting and deburring the stiffeners, match drilling the skin to the skeleton, and dimpling and priming the skin), I started working on the right elevator.  The skins on the rudder are only .016" think, so I wanted to back rivet the stiffeners on the elevators before attempting the same on the rudder skins.  This is probably an unnecessary step, but I thought the extra practice on the slightly thicker elevator skins would be useful.

Similar to the rudder, I started the right elevator by cutting and deburring all of the stiffeners for the top and bottom of the skin.  The notches Van's makes in the stiffener aluminum makes this a straightforward, albeit time consuming, process.  I also deburred the counterbalance skin and ribs, as well as the elevator spar.  After that, the stiffeners are match drilled to the top and bottom of the skin, the ribs are fluted, and everything is assembled and match drilled.

Stiffeners cut for top and bottom of skin

Assembling skeleton

Skin attached to skeleton and match drilled

Priming stiffeners

Stiffeners back riveted in place

Blue vinyl removed - I love how this looks!

Ready to bend trailing edge with bending brake

Rudder Time!

Things are progressing nicely now.  I started cutting and deburring all of the stiffeners for the left and right rudder skins, and then removed the vinyl from the rivet locations.  After that was finished, I started working on the skeleton.  A few pieces of aluminum need to be cut from scrap to be used as shims, but this is a straightforward process.  The counterbalance skin is then clecoed to the top ribs and everything is match drilled together.  It looks like the biggest challenge on the rudder will be riveting the trailing edge.

Stiffeners cut and deburred on right side skin

Removing the blue stuff

Both skins match drilled and ready to go

Drilling R-918 bottom attach strips to R-904 rib

Skeleton ready for disassembly, dimpling and priming

Vertical Stabilizer work

Compared to the horizontal stabilizer, the vertical stabilizer seems to come together very quickly.  It's probably a combination of getting used to working with aluminum and understanding the plans better - it's nice to see things take shape more rapidly. 

Match drilled skin to skeleton

Priming internal components

Skeleton primed and ready for riveting

Riveting spar doubler and hinge brackets to rear spar

Riveting skeleton together

Final assembly

Finished Horizontal Stabilizer

With the nose rib riveted to the horizontal stabilizer skin, things move along pretty quickly.  Jim and I riveted the internal section of the skeleton, which went really well.  With that completed, I was able to squeeze the perimeter rivets with my hand squeezer.  It's cool to see the first section of the empennage finally complete.

External view of nose rib rivets

Early internal view

Riveting bottom left skin
 

All internal rivets complete

Horizontal stabilizer finished - very cool !

Proud owner of a completed horizontal stabilizer.

Horizontal Stabilizer work continues

I haven't been good about posting information about my progress, but fortunately I have been good about working on the horizontal stabilizer.  At this point, I'm nearly finished with the HS, so I will make an entry to reflect the things I have done.  Here are some of the tasks I have completed: 

• Notched left and right HS-702 where bends will be located (a rat tail file and a pair of aviation snips makes this a straightforward task - much easier that a unibit).  Bent tabs 6 degrees.
• Tapered front spar reinforcement pieces (HS-710 and HS-714), bent them 6 degrees, and match drilled them to HS-702.
• Clecoed left and right HS skin to understructure and match drilled all holes.
• Disassembled everything, prepped and primed spars, ribs, and skins.
• Riveted spar reinforcement bars to rear spar.
• Riveted HS skeleton.
• Began riveting ribs to skin.

First rivets

I prepped the HS411PP elevator hinge bearing, and primed with SEM primer.  Here is the procedure I use to prepare parts for priming:

• Deburr with single or double edged deburr tool
• Use emery cloth to remove any irregularities on edges or surfaces
• Scuff with maroon Scotch Brite pad
• Clean with acetone.  Following this step, part will only be handled with gloves to prevent contamination of surface.

Bearing ready to be installed in HS411PP hinge bracket

I back drilled the HS411PP bracket (only one side has the holes pre-punched) and installed the completed bearing.  I used my pneumatic squeezer to squeeze the AN470AD4-5 rivets, which turned out well.  I know some builders use -6 rivets here, but the instructions are very specific here, so I used what was specified.

Completed hinge bearing assembly

New workshop, new table

Following the move to my new workshop, I went ahead and built an EAA Chapter 1000 standard table.  As per the suggestion of a fellow builder, I constructed the table top with a two inch overhang on each side, which will allow parts to be clamped to the table if necessary.  I was very pleased with the results, and the table has turned out to be a terrific addition to the workshop.  I like the table so much, I may build another one in the future if necessary.